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Click here to see all the pictures in the Muscat photo gallery.

We landed at Seeb International Airport in Muscat, Oman late on a comfortably warm, 90° July evening. Our trip began in an expat neighborhood just outside of Muscat. The home was beautiful, with a small backyard, and 5 times a day you could here the prayer call. (2:15...From a back porch with a small cassette recorder, so excuse the quality.)

I'm sure for the Muslims in the area the prayer call was just part of life, and the non-Muslim expats grew to ignore it, but for us it was part of the charm of being in Oman. The dominant Islamic sect in Oman is Ibadhi, practiced little throughout the rest of the Muslim world. From more than one source, we heard that one of the primary attributes of Ibadhi is its tolerance of others, and based on our experience, we have no reason to disagree.

Our hosts were gracious, a large part of the pleasure of this trip, and they had plans for us. The very next day, we were on our way to Salalah.

Our first day back in Muscat, after three days in Salalah, was an easy one. Our one outing took us to the Oman Dive Centre, which we were told was sort of an expat hangout. What we found was a secluded cove, a beautiful beach, and shallow, crystal clear water. It was also nearly deserted, so we had the place to ourselves. It was a 100°+ day in Muscat, and the water in the cove was like comfortably cool bath water. The pool water was more like uncomfortably warm bath water. We went in, but didn't stay very long. Dinner was shawarma from a local street vendor. This was the local version of fast food, similar to a Greek gyro, with slices of lamb or chicken, and vegetables rolled in a pita like flat bread, and delicious.

It was a nice relaxing afternoon, which was good, because the next day started early and went late. Peter J. Ochs II, better known as Peachy, author of the Mavericks Guide to Oman, was our guide, and since we gave him only one day, he wanted to show us as much as possible. Our first stop, after a couple hour drive from Muscat through Wadi Sumail (the Sumail Gap) was Birkit Al Mawz.

After our long...long...long day with Peachy, the next day started slowly. Late in the day, the ladies and the gentlemen split up, with the gentlemen having dinner at Fudruckers (even in Oman, the evils of Western society). The ladies went to have henna done in Muscat and then met some Omani women, friends and coworkers of our hosts, at a local restaurant for dinner. Henna is a plant that produces a dye that has been used for body art for centuries. True henna is harmless, lasting for several days to even a week or so. The artwork can be very intricate, with the henna being applied and then needing to be allowed to dry. They longer it is left on, the darker the design will be. Dinner included the gift of a Omani chest as a welcome to Oman. It was beautiful, it was big, and when we began packing a couple of days later, we wondered how we would get this solid wood chest home. It turned out that it fit (barely) into the largest of our pull behind suitcases. So in packing, we packed almost everything into the chest, put the chest into the suitcase, and packed clothing around the chest to protect it. The suitcase was very heavy, but the chest made it home unscathed.

 Being able to refer to an Omani woman with the phrase "going out to dinner with a friend and coworker" is a reflection of Omani society. It is still Islamic, but less restrictive on women than in other Islamic countries. Both women and men dress traditionally. But, especially in the urban areas,  it is normal that a woman's face is not covered. Women hold jobs, drive cars, and go to school and even a university (albeit a separate one from the men). 

Our last two days in Oman were spent sightseeing locally in and around Muscat. We began the first day with a drive into Muscat, then along the corniche (the road that runs along the coast) to Muttrah and into the souqs. The outdoor souqs were what we had pictured...a bustling, colorful open air market. This was primarily foods, especially fish, fruits, and vegetables. Gold, jewelry, clothing, and Omani souvenirs were primarily in the indoor souqs, less charming and reminiscent of mini-malls around the world. Even without the charm, we managed to contribute to the local economy. We came home with a kilo of frankincense and charcoal on which to burn it. We also picked up a kumma (a traditional embroidered cap worn by Omani men), a gold heart necklace (Happy Anniversary!), and a khanjar (a traditional dagger that is the symbol of Oman).

The ladies and gentlemen split up again at this point, with the ladies having dinner out, this time at an Omani home. The hosts were expat women, friends of friends, who had married Omani men. Dinner was wonderful, and inside the home, the host women discarded the burka worn in public and wore beautiful, colorful clothes. However, my wife thought it was interesting that these women, not born in an Islamic culture, were seemingly more traditional than the native Omani women she had had dinner with the night before. My wife was met at the door by the lady of the house, and even though her husband was home, he was never seen. And when the husband of one of the other ladies came to pick her up, he called first and she went out to meet him.

On our last day in Oman, we visited the Amouage perfumery. Amouage was a new perfume business based on frankincense, with the intent of helping to regenerate demand for Omani frankincense. The two perfume lines were the signature line Amouage, "The most valuable perfume in the world," and Ubar. We again managed to contribute to the local economy, even ringing up our own sale. In Oman, a typical work day is from early morning, maybe 8:00 until around 1:00. Then there is a 3 hour break for lunch and the Omani version of a siesta. Business starts again around 4:00 and continues until 7:00. We went to check out at the perfumery shortly after 1:00. The staff was gone, leaving only a couple of managers who did not know how to accept a credit card payment. My wife stepped behind the counter, processed the payment, and we left as the perfumery closed for the afternoon.

Click here to see all the pictures in the Muscat photo gallery.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


الصفحة الرئيسية

الصفحات


Salalah


Ubar and the Rub' al-Khali


The Edge of the Rub' al-Khali


Nizwa



 Misfah